During the pandemic, I ventured into baking around the same time my 5-year-old twins developed a fascination with pancakes. I decided to try making them from scratch, a task I had always avoided. Growing up with my grandparents, I rarely saw measuring cups used in the kitchen. My fear of miscalculation led me to shy away from baking altogether. After my first attempt, my daughter had some critical feedback: “Mommy, these are burnt. They aren’t like the ones I eat from Trader Joe’s.”
For months, pancakes became the exclusive breakfast for my daughters. Concerned about the cavities I knew would form from the butter-laden syrup they poured over their pancakes, I attempted to replace their Aunt Jemima syrup with a more organic agave syrup. That did not go over well! We now keep a bottle of Aunt Jemima prominently displayed in our fridge. For my daughters, it’s about the taste and the nostalgia tied to that syrup. However, in the coming months, our beloved bottle will undergo a transformation.
The backstory of Aunt Jemima, the woman depicted on the syrup bottle, has always been somewhat elusive. Contrary to popular belief, her story doesn’t revolve around a loving Black grandmother making syrup for her grandchildren. This misconception, voiced by my South Asian partner, was something I had never truly contemplated.
Growing up, Aunt Jemima syrup was a staple in our home. I occasionally added it to my warm Cream of Wheat. Yet, discussions about Aunt Jemima’s identity were absent in my upbringing. Perhaps my grandparents were unaware, or like me, they never thought the story behind her image was significant. Or maybe they, like my partner, interpreted Aunt Jemima’s friendly smile as that of a joyous woman excited to cook for her family, much like my grandmother did.
Quaker Oats, the brand behind Aunt Jemima syrup, has altered its branding in light of the Black Lives Matter movement, stating, “As we work to promote racial equality through various initiatives, we must also critically evaluate our portfolio of brands to ensure they reflect our values and meet consumer expectations.”
While I can’t speak for all consumers, I have high hopes for the $400 million commitment Quaker Oats pledged to support the Black community. In late 2020, they announced a $1 million initiative aimed at empowering Black women and girls, along with a $400 million investment to uplift Black communities and enhance representation at PepsiCo, who acquired Quaker Oats for $13.8 billion in 2001. In the summer of 2020, the decision was made to retire the Aunt Jemima brand name, replacing it with “Pearl Milling Company.”
This financial commitment, while a step in the right direction, only scratches the surface of a much deeper historical issue. We need to explore Aunt Jemima’s true legacy and the vital role Black women have played in shaping this nation. So, who was Aunt Jemima?
The original figure behind the brand was Nancy Green, a formerly enslaved woman born in Kentucky in 1834. She later moved to Chicago to work for the Walker family. Her culinary talents, particularly her legendary pancakes, caught the attention of the Aunt Jemima Manufacturing Company, which sought to embody the “mammy” stereotype in their branding. In 1893, she debuted at the World’s Fair as Aunt Jemima and signed a lifetime contract that perpetuated the stereotype of Black women as caretakers and cooks for white families. Nancy Green leveraged her newfound financial stability to support anti-poverty initiatives and her church. After her tragic death in 1923, Lillian Richard from Texas took over the brand’s representation, followed by ten other Black women who embodied the brand created by two white men in the late 19th century.
I hope a portion of the $400+ million pledged by Quaker Oats is allocated to acknowledging the sacrifices made by these 12 brand ambassadors throughout Aunt Jemima’s history. Quaker Oats could establish museums and contribute narratives that educate future generations about Aunt Jemima and her significance in America.
However, this is merely a starting point. Financial contributions are insufficient when addressing deeply rooted beliefs that diminish the value of Black lives. The challenge lies not just in removing Aunt Jemima’s image, but in confronting the racist implications of her name and legacy. The company must clarify their intentions and rebrand meaningfully, fostering inclusion and dialogue among all communities to combat racist ideologies.
At least now we know the truth about Aunt Jemima and understand the need for a rebranding of the syrup’s image. This knowledge can be passed down to our children, ensuring her legacy and the stories of the 12 women who represented her are not forgotten. I hope Quaker Oats takes the lead in honoring this legacy for years to come.
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In summary, the story of Aunt Jemima is one that reflects a complicated legacy of race and representation. As we move forward with new branding, it is crucial to honor the contributions of those who have shaped this narrative while fostering an environment of inclusivity and education.